The olfactory families in perfumery
An interesting overview
The art of perfumery, like all other art forms, needs to express itself in a language based on precise patterns, which allow the artistic project to be defined in an orderly and comprehensible manner. If we tried to make associations with the art of music, we could compare olfactory families to musical genres. It is well known and acknowledged that each one follows precise patterns and expresses itself using a musicality which identifies it. In the same way it functions in perfumery, so olfactory families are nothing more than schematic categorisations that in some way regulate the world of smells. Just as no musician could play a Blues without knowing the musical structure that characterises it, that is, the famous twelve repetitive bars characterised by specific musical chords, no perfumer would be able to create a Fougere fragrance, for example, without knowing the olfactory structure and the reference accords.
What are the olfactory families and how are they structured? What are the key elements which identify each family and what are the expressive criteria which the perfumer should be familiar with?
This family is characterized by the presence of key notes from citrus fruits that give off fresh, light and inebriating scents of bergamot, mandarin, lemon, orange and grapefruit for example. The essential oils used to obtain the characteristic accords of this family are extracted from the peel of citrus fruits by accurate techniques which take into consideration their extreme delicacy. These accords are notoriously rather ethereal and are often interpreted in combination with accords associated to other olfactory families in order to obtain a long-lasting perfume.
It is probably the oldest family and citrus colognes mainly refer to it; it is enough to think that in the sixteenth century were produced eaux de Cologne used both by men and women.
CITRUS-FLORAL-CHYPRE
This sub-family represented a new generation of “Eau de Cologne”. The citrus note is certainly predominant and characteristic, but it is combined with other fresh and floral notes, mainly related to Jasmine, which are lost on a Woody and Mossy undertone.
CITRUS-SPICY
To this sub-family belong citrus fragrances whose key-notes are essentially combined with spicy notes such as Clove, Pepper, Nutmeg or Cinnamon, for example.
CITRUS-WOODY
To this sub-family belong the citrus fragrances whose key-notes are considerably less pronounced and therefore slightly weaker. The floral accord should be less pronounced and slightly detectable, while a woody, powdery base should be more pronounced and predominant.
CITRUS-AROMATIC
In this sub-family, the predominant citrus structure is characterised by the combination with aromatic notes such as Thyme, Marjoram, Rosemary or Mint, for example.
This family is predominantly characterised by key-notes that can be defined as “fresh“, and this definition can only be traced back to precise olfactory interpretations that refer to “something” that still retains its distinct natural qualities and is able to evoke pleasant sensations of balance, vivacity, fresh strength and well-being.
FRESH-AROMATIC-HERBACEOUS
This is a subfamily characterized by key notes from the plant kingdom coming mainly from the Mediterranean basin that are closely related to green; they clearly convey freshness and vitality.
Such key notes are generally more oriented towards aromatic herbs with camphorous, minty, eucalyptus and earthy undertones.
Tea, Red Tea, Rosemary, Mugwort, Basil, Sage, Aniseed and Thyme are examples, as are Peppermint and Lavender, the last of which is both herbaceous and floral at the same time.
FRESH-GREEN
This is a subfamily characterized by key notes from the plant kingdom that are closely related to leaves, stalks or freshly mown grass, as well as cucumbery-like.
FRESH-FRUITY
This is a subfamily characterized by lively and light fruit fragrances, especially those from fruits with green and yellow peels.
This olfactory area includes Apple, Pear, Melon, Pineapple and Tropical fruits key-notes, for example.
Be careful! Citrus fruits do not belong to this group.
FRESH-FRUITY-DARK
This subfamily includes the sweet, sultry fragrance notes that mainly influence the heart and base notes of perfume compositions and have high substantivity. Raspberry, Apricot and Peach are examples.
FRESH-AQUATIC/OCEANIC/OZONE
The newest olfactory area in perfume history, appearing in 1991. A very clean, modern smell leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes.
Calone, in my opinion, is certainly the protagonist.
FRESH-CONIFEROUS
This subfamily includes whole or crushed coniferous needles or resins, which can also present citrusy, herbaceous or spicy-aromatic key notes in addition to the typically earthy note. These key notes may be more or less resinous and green. Pine Needle Oil is coniferous with citrusy accents, while Fir Balsam tends to be aromatic-resinous with sweet accents.
This family can certainly be considered one of the largest and oldest in perfumery; the dominant theme is obviously characterised by fragrant floral scents.
Many very successful women's fragrances belong to this family or have relied on it to create complex structures with a combined theme. Several male fragrances are also characterised by floral accords combined with spicy or aromatic notes, for example.
The possibility of introducing into the structure of the perfume, in addition to the distinctive odorous element based on the petals, accents which recall the odours emanating from the stem and root should not be undervalued in order to obtain greater typicity.
Floral notes generally form the heart of a perfume. They can principally be classified into “light” and “heavy“, and the difference can be determined not only by the intrinsic olfactory characteristics of the type of floral theme chosen, but also by the intensity and depth which the perfumer aims to achieve in order to give voice to his inspiration.
Light floral accords might include typical spring flowers such as Lily of the valley (Muguet), Lilac, Freesia and the graceful notes of Rose, often combined with citrus or fruity notes.
The inebriating floral fragrances often encountered in the mild climates of more northern regions can be considered heavy. Jasmine, Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus are some examples and can be combined with balsamic, spicy and sometimes animalic notes. There are also hybrid notes, such as Hyacinth, which tend to be floral but at the same time green, as well as Violet which is characterised by herbaceous and earthy nuances.
FLORAL-SOLIFLORE
This subfamily includes fragrances characterised by the dominant floral theme without variation.
Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Rose, Tuberose, Carnation, Lily of the Valley, Violet, Cyclamen, Narcissus, Lilac, Mimosa, Gardenia are some examples.
This new concept represents the beginning of modern perfumery with which perfumers want to celebrate nature by simply evoking the olfactory purity of a specific flower.
FLORAL-BOUQUET
Also in this subfamily nature has the dominant role and is an indispensable source of inspiration for the perfumer but, in this case, the olfactory structures become more complex and articulated.
Fantasy and artistic inspiration come into play, but always without distorting the basic concept which must essentially express olfactory authenticity.
FLORAL-ALDEHYDIC
This subfamily is extremely important and is among the most highly regarded in modern perfumery.
It essentially expresses the idea of a floral bouquet combined and completed with the addition of animal, powdery and woody notes.
The top note is strongly characterised by the presence of aldehyde complexes in combination with citrus. These aldehyde complexes are mainly made up of long-chain fatty aldehydes. They give a typical oily and sweaty, somewhat pungent and soapy olfactory note. The spectrum ranges from fruity almond green nuances, to the smell of ironed laundry, to metallic nuances, to scents of ozone, ocean and wax. Some of the aldehyde fragrances are related to the smell of human skin and perspiration.
Aldehyde C8 (Octanal), Aldehyde C9 (Nonanal) and Aldehyde C10 (Decanal) produces citrus effects, while Aldehyde C11 (Undecylenic) produces an animalic and human skin effect and Aldehyde C12 (Lauric) a fresh, almost ozone-like note.
FLORAL-ANIMALIC
This subfamily is characterised by the presence of animal-derived raw materials.
The use of most of them, because they come from real animals, has been banned for ethical reasons in various parts of the world and so synthetic alternatives, obtained in the laboratory, have taken the place. The connotative olfactory characteristics can be described as erogenous and seductive with ‘raw and dirty' nuances.
Civet (Zibeth)
Civet oil is obtained from the glandular secretion produced by both sexes of Viverridae species, including the African civet (Civettictis civetta), large Indian civet (Viverra zibetha) and small Indian civet (Viverricula indica).
Since this animal is captured to obtain its secretions without causing any harm to them, the civet is still used today as an animal note. Its scent is faecal-acid with a slight hint of honey.
The chemical in civet oil that gives it most of its distinctive odor is Civetone. The oil also includes various other ketones such as Cyclopentadecanone, Cyclohexadecanone, Cycloheptadecanone, and 6-cis-Cycloheptadecenone. The animal scent is reinforced by the presence of smaller amounts of indole and skatole.
Castoreum (Beaver)
Castoreum, used for medicines and perfumes since time immemorial, is an odorous secretion obtained from certain glands situated near the beaver's genital organs. They belonging to the family Castoridae, Castor canadensis (Canadian beaver) found in Canada and the northern United States and Castor fiber L. (Siberian beaver) found in Russia and in many parts of Europe.
Both female and male beavers have these glands, but those of the female are less developed. The fresh castoreum secretion is a creamy orange brown substance with a strong, penetrating odor. When dried it turns to a reddish-brown resin with a pungent, acrid, bitter odor.
Castoreum obtained from the Russian beaver has a tarry odor with a secondary creosote-like note, reminiscent of Birch Bark Oil. The Canadian castoreum has a secondary odor reminiscent of Pine Resin, associated with Galbanum. This odor difference may be attributed to the different food eaten by these beavers.
The Russian beaver feeds on birch bark and the Canadian beaver consumes the bark of aspen, pine and fir trees.
In part, the unique odor of castoreum is due to large amounts of phenolic compounds. It has a strong animalic, warm and sweet smell, with leathery nuances, and is used mostly as a fixative, especially in oriental-type fragrances but also in Amber, Leather, Animalic and Chypre perfumes. Furthermore, castoreum imparts a pungent and tart note to fragrances and enhances woody odors.
Don't confuse Castoreum with Castor Oil. It is an important detail!
Musk (Musk deer)
Musk was originally obtained from the glandular secretions of the musk deer.
The musk deer belongs to the family Moschidae and lives in Tibet, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, China, Siberia, Mongolia and North Vietnam. The musk pod is normally obtained by killing the male deer through traps laid in the wild. Upon drying, the reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod turns into a black granular material called “musk grain”, which is then tinctured with alcohol.
This tincture has a sweet urine-like odour and is slightly medicinal. The actual musk tincture is extremely valuable today and is hardly used anymore.
The organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk is Muscone.
Some plants such as Angelica archangelica, Abelmoschus moschatus (Musk seeds), Mimulus moschatus (Musk Flower) and Olearia argophylla (Muskwood) produce musky-smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds. These compounds are widely used in perfumery as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of a mixture of other musks.
When we talk about musky notes today, what we generally mean are synthetically obtained aromatic chemicals that are largely reminiscent of this note, although they generally have a more powdery and significantly less animalic odour.
They can be divided into four groups:
- AROMATIC NITROMUSKS
- POLYCYCLIC MUSKS
- MACROCYCLIC MUSKS
- ALICYCLIC MUSKS, as the fourth generation of musk odorants, of which Helvetolide and Romandolide are the most popular representatives.
FLORAL-CITRUS
In this subfamily, the dominant floral accords are shaped and enhanced by the presence of citrus notes to give character and freshness.
Orange blossom and Petitgrain are appropriately placed in these fragrances and show their true character.
FLORAL-WOODY
In this subfamily floral accords are always dominant characterised by Violet, Jasmine, Rose or Lily of the Valley, for example. It is possible to identify citrus or herbaceous top notes combined with powdery, vanilla and sweet and dry woody notes.
FLORAL-FRUITY
In this subfamily too, the dominant theme is always floral to which the fruity notes of Peach, Apple, Plum or Apricot are added, also in combination with sweet woody or musky notes.
FLORAL-WHITE
In this subfamily, the dominant floral theme refers to white flowers and is often combined with musky arrangements that are not excessively accentuated. Tonalide, Galaxolide and Celestolide could certainly play a role.
FLORAL-FRESH
In this subfamily, the dominant floral theme should instil a genuine and comforting sense of freshness.
FLORAL-MUSK
In this subfamily, the dominant floral theme is supported by distinctly musk undertones.
FLORAL-GREEN
This subfamily represents a new and exciting category of fragrances. A fresh, predominant green note is added to a complex floral blend to give a sharp freshness.
The floriental family includes fragrances that are the result of a sophisticated fusion of floral and oriental notes. Floral notes of Gardenia, Jasmine, Freesia and Orange Blossom are combined with spices, warm woods and resins to create sensual and sweetly seductive fragrances, which cannot be considered authentic oriental because they are lighter.
This family gives space for innumerable artistic interpretations and greatly stimulates the imagination of perfumers, as the possible declinations are really many.
The Oriental/Amber family is certainly one of the most appreciated. Over the years there have been numerous olfactory interpretations by very skilful perfumers which have made this family a real masterpiece.
This olfactory family includes fragrances whose concept is expressed exclusively in reference to a very important ingredient of animal origin which is Ambergis.
Ambergris or Grey Amber is produced in the intestinal tract of of the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) in response to irritation of its gastrointestinal tract.
One of the major components of ambergris is the triterpene Ambreine. When ambergris is released into the sea, it is exposed to salt water, oxygen and sunlight, which are responsible for a number of degradation reactions that break the Ambreine molecule into smaller fragments. All of these changes have been replicated in laboratory and, certainly, we can say that the most important product obtained from Ambreine degradation, largely responsible for the characteristic odour of ambergris, is the naphtofuran, which is known as Ambrofix, Ambrox and Ambroxan.
Another product obtained from Ambreine degradation is called Ambrinol and is responsible for the earthy notes in Ambergris.
Oriental fragrances are then characterised and enriched with ingredients with distinctly sweet, powdery and spicy notes such as Labdanum (also Vegetable Amber), Cinnamon or fragrant and precious woods such as Oud.
Tonka, Vanilla and animal notes along with flowers and warm woods can also be included in the composition along with Camphor Oil and Incense Resin.
ORIENTAL/AMBER-SPICY
In this subfamily there is an evident spicy character and a key contribution from floral notes such as Carnation, for example.
ORIENTAL/AMBER-WOODY
In this sub-family the woody character is very distinct and the top notes have a hint of floral variations.
ORIENTAL/AMBER-FRESH
To this subfamily belong fragrances that have a floral character and where their citrus-type top note is very pronounced.
ORIENTAL/AMBER-SWEET/BALSAMIC
In this subfamily we encounter the most classic of amber fragrances. The name is derived from the word “balsam,” which is used to denote certain kinds of resins. It is recognisable by its sweetness and warmth and by its predominant ‘Aura'.
An heavy, sweet, rich fragrance with Chocolate-Vanilla-like, Cinnamon-like to resinous fragrance elements such as Peru Balsam or Olibanum (Frankincense). Nuances of this family can also be found in many orchid notes.ORIENTAL/AMBER-AMBERFLOWER
In this subfamily we find fragrances with a more fine amber blend in a strong olfactory harmony. The dominant notes are floral, fresh, spicy and well-integrated in a very consistent bouquet.
The Fougère family takes its name from an emblematic fragrance, Fougère Royale by Houbigant, a creation of the famous perfumer Paul Parquet, who in 1882 initiated a real revolution in the world of perfumery.
This family includes fragrances based on an accord generally made up of top notes of Bergamot and Lavender, skilfully accentuated by aromatic notes of Chamomile or mediterranean herbs such as Thyme and Rosemary, a floral heart of Geranium sometimes combined with spices and woody base notes such as Patchouli or even Vanilla, accompanied by Oakmoss, Coumarin and sometimes Amber.
These accords have evolved considerably and now tend to be fresh and light or strongly connotative with the intention of emphasising virility and masculinity, being predominantly weared by men.
FOUGÈRE-SWEET
In this subfamily the notes of vanilla, coumarin and hay bases are very strong.
FOUGÈRE-FLORAL/SWEET
Like the previously described subfamily, the notes of vanilla, coumarin and hay bases are very pronounced but there is also a clear and strong floral character.
FOUGÈRE-SPICY
This subfamily represents the very classic Fougère fragrance and is characterised by the presence of floral notes and especially the addition of spicy notes such as Cinnamon, Cloves or Pepper.
FOUGÈRE-AROMATIC
This subfamily is always represented by a Fougère note, but more closely related to citrus, herbaceous and especially aromatic notes imparted by Thyme, Coriander, Rosemary and are sometimes also slightly spicy.
The olfactory family of woody fragrances is characterised by the presence of warm woody notes such as Sandalwood and Cedarwood, but also by leaves and roots such as Patchouli and Vetiver and sometimes combined with spicy notes such as Cinnamon or Black Pepper or with resinous, smoky and humid notes which change the dimension and depth.
Woody notes are present in the vast majority of fragrances. For a long time these compositions were considered primarily masculine, but for several years now woody notes have been seducing even the most feminine noses, blending with floral or fruity nuances.
WOODY-CITRUS/CONIFEROUS
In this subfamily we encounter the dominant woody theme skilfully declined thanks to the use of Pine essences which play a fundamental role. The top notes are typically citrus-like.
WOODY-SPICY
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme, refined by predominantly spicy notes such as Pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves or Cinnamon.
WOODY-SPICY/LEATHER
This subfamily is characterised by the woody dominant theme to which a leather accord is added.
WOODY-AROMATIC
In this subfamily, woody harmonies are the main part of the composition, often accompanied by Lavender and sometimes green notes but always with aromatic top notes such as Thyme, Myrtle, Rosemary and Sage.
WOODY-FLORAL
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme which is accompanied by fresh, clean floral notes.
WOODY-FRUITY
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme which is accompanied by more or less intense fruity notes to give tone and vivacity.
WOODY-FRESH
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme which is accompanied by fresh and sometimes also green notes which are not too intense.
WOODY-AMBER
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme combined with rich and warm notes such as Vanilla, Hay, Tonka, Labdanum, Patchouli and Sandalwood.
WOODY-TOBACCO
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme with a clear tobacco-oriented declination in all its facets, ranging from aromatically sauced pipe tobacco to cigar tobacco right through the smell of a stale ashtray.
WOODY-MOSSY
This subfamily is characterised by the dominant woody theme with a mossy-oriented declination. The presence of Oak Moss dominates, a lichen that grows on oaks. The typical note of oak moss has a unique, dry, algaceous smell, with a note of cheese crust and a tarry and phenolic element, in addition to green nuances.
Lichens growing on other types of trees provide extraction products (treemoss) which have a more woody and resinous smell.
This family takes its name from the perfume created by François Coty in 1917 and is also considered to be among the most relevant.
The fragrances of this family are characterised by citrus top notes of Bergamot, Orange, Lemon, floral heart notes of Jasmine, Rose, Lilac, Ylang-Ylang, Carnation, Iris, for example, and base notes Oakmoss, Patchouli, Labdanum, Musk, Styrax.
The description of a chypre perfume is sometimes difficult because of its complexity, but the crucial element is certainly character.
CHYPRE-WOODY
In this subfamily chypre accords are accentuated by the presence of woody notes that provide warmth and depth.
CHYPRE-FRUITY
In this subfamily it is again the Chypre accord that predominates, which is fuller and completed with fruity notes of Peach, Plum and Exotic Fruits.
CHYPRE-FLORAL
It is a Chypre structure with the addition of floral notes such as Lily of the Valley, Rose and Jasmine.
CHYPRE-FLORAL/ALDEHYDIC
It is a fragrance from the Floral-Aldehydic subfamily adapted to the Chypre-Floral sub-family rather than simply floral.
CHYPRE-LEATHER
Leather, smoke, burnt wood and animal notes are added to one of the Chypre structures and these compositions are sometimes rounded off with fresh, often citrus notes.
CHYPRE-GREEN
This subfamily is characterised by a contrast between the fresh, green top notes of cut grass and crushed leaves and a warm, deep base.
CHYPRE-FRESH
It is a Chypre structure with the addition of fresh notes that infuse brilliance and vivacity.
This family is characterized by fragrances structured around the dominant leather theme, which involves the interlocking of notes of smoke, burnt wood, silver tar and tobacco. These smoky notes were created by infusing scraps of tanned leather with burnt birch bark and tobacco.
Later animal notes such as Ambergris, Civet, Castoreum and Musk were added. These atypical fragrances have a look that could be considered rough but this is not the case. The Leather family was popularized thanks to the Cuir de Russie perfume created by perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1927.
Isobutylquinoleine is certainly considered a fundamental catalyst in leather accords.
LEATHER-FLORAL
This subfamily is characterized by the presence of a linear and non-aggressive leather accord, accompanied by floral accents of Violet and Iris for example.
LEATHER-TOBACCO
In this subfamily, the leather accord is combined with woody, honeyed and hay notes that characterize the typical smell of Virginia Tobacco.
LEATHER-AMBER
This subfamily is characterized by the presence of a linear and non-aggressive leather accord, supported by characterizing amber accords that give character and depth.
This family is characterized by perfumes with “edible” or “sweet” qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla and tonka bean, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble the flavors of foods.
The Gourmand family significantly increased its popularity in 1992, when Thierry Mugler launched the Angel perfume created by perfumers Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin.
These are warm scents characterized by the presence of notes such as Vanilla, Caramel, Chocolate, Cake, Cotton Candy, Coconut, Biscuits, etc.
GOURMAND-FRUITY
This subfamily is characterized by the unmistakably fruity dominant theme. Banana, Strawberry, Mango, Coconut, Watermelon, Pineapple, Lychee, Pear, Peach, Cherry are some examples.GOURMAND-DESSERT/CAKE
This subfamily is instead characterized by the dominant theme that recalls the idea of dessert. Biscuit, Cake, Caramel, Caramel Dessert, Popcorn, Macaron, Marron Glace, Berries, Almond Dessert, Vanilla, Cupcake, Creme Brulee, Pistachio are some examples.
GOURMAND-CANDIES
This subfamily contains the interpretations that reference tasty candy or sugary products which literally exalt the taste buds.
Marshmallow, Cotton Candy, Bubble Gum, Gelee, Chocolate, White Chocolate, Brown Sugar Candy, Cotton Candy, Pralines, Toffee, Caramelized Nuts are some examples.
GOURMAND-BEVERAGES
This subfamily is characterized by fragrances that recall the concept of drink.
Milk, Cola, Cappuccino, Barley and Coffee are some examples.
GOURMAND-SWEET/AROMATIC
This subfamily is characterized by admittedly sweet fragrances that smell of Honey, Almond, Marzipan, Anise or Woodruff, often with rich fruit or spicy nuances.
- Charles S. Sell (2019), Fundamentals of Fragrance Chemistry, Wiley-VCH
- Fahlbusch, Karl-Georg (2007), Flavors and Fragrances, Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (7th ed.)
- George A. Burdock (2010), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients (6th ed.), Taylor & Francis
- Philip G. Stevens, American Musk II A Preliminary Note on the Scent Glands of the Beaver, Journal of the American Chemical Society 1943 65 (12), 2471-2471
- Danute Pajaujis Anonis (1997), Castoreum and Castoreum Substitutes
- Jelen, Henryk (2011-10-25), Food Flavors: Chemical, Sensory and Technological Properties
